FERRULES

EARLY American rods were “spliced”and many British rods are now made that way. That is, the end of the joints or pieces are fashioned to fit snugly together and the joining is done by lashing with a piece of thong, wire or adhesive tape. The British have some strange, and to us almost primitive, ideas on ferrules. The best makers have some locking device such as a hook on the male ferrule to engage with a corresponding projection on the female or when they do use a suction or friction ferrule they add a dowel or pin which American rod makers discarded several generations ago.

The best American ferrules are serrated or split. The serrated ferrule is crown-shaped so that each point rests on the flat face or angle of a bamboo rod. Theoretically, at least, this makes the change between resilient wood and unyielding metal less abrupt and eases the strain at the joints  the vulnerable part of a rod. The split ferrule works on the same principle.

Good American ferrules are made of German silver, tempered and retempered until they have almost the hardness of steel. They are shouldered to avoid unnecessary cutting away of wood and the female ferrule is reenforced with a welt at the open end and is waterproofed by a partition or floor at its base to prevent water getting at the wood. In short, the better class of American ferrule is a decided success.

GRASPS

The best material for the hand grasp is cork, either solid or of cork discs over a wood core. Cheap rods have a thin sheathing of cork on the grasp which soon shows signs of wear and the same objection applies to the celluloid and cane wound grasps. The form of the grasp is a matter of taste. The swelled grasp is large in the middle and tapers at the front and rear while the shaped or Wells' grasp flares at both ends. I have rods with both types and can notice little difference in them.

REEL SEAT, ETC.

The reel seat on a fly rod is placed below the hand to keep the reel out of the way and to add weight below the grip for leverage in casting. The reel seat may be either metal, celluloid or “skeleton “the latter usually being a piece of grooved cedar.

The metal reel seat should be of German silver as this material is superior to the nickel plated brass used on the cheaper rods. German silver is strong, its finish is permanent and never chips and while it tarnishes slightly it can easily be polished. I rather like the British idea of oxidizing all metal parts. With the skeleton or celluloid reel seats a metal butt cap is put on the rod to take the rear end of the reel base and a metal ring slides down over the forward end. This is adequate for all practical purposes although some makers supply their reel seats with locking devices designed to hold the reel more securely. This cap, ring winding check or taper should also be of German silver. English rods are usually furnished with a “button “or knob of wood or hard rubber at the extreme butt to hold against the body while playing a fish. A detachable butt of soft rubber is sold by all tackle dealers and it is a good substitute for the permanent button. Many English rods have a metal spear at the butt, an idea that has never met with favor among American anglers.

GUIDES AND TIP TOPS

For many years fly rods were made with rings and keepers but at present the snake and English bridge guides are most often used. All agate guides are objectionable on a fly rod because of their weight but an agate or imitation agate first or hand guide and tip top (tip guide) are desirable as they save wear on the line as well as on the guide itself. Steel guides are preferable to those of German silver as the latter are softer and soon wear and fray the line.

WINDINGS

Windings are put on a bamboo rod to help hold the sections together and for decoration. They also have something to do with the rod's action. They are usually put on in clusters and the color is a matter of taste. There is nothing in metal windings that recommends their use on a fly rod.

Finish

The usual finish of a fly rod is a number of coats of good varnish. Some anglers prefer their bamboo rods to be stained dark green or brown to harmonize with stream-side surroundings on the theory that such a finish is less likely to scare a shy fish. I do not believe that the' finish of a rod or its fittings have much to do with its visibility to the fish but these dark rods, wound with “contrasty”silk and finished oxidized are certainly very handsome and if an angler has an artistic craving for such things and wishes to use a shy fish for an excuse I, for one, will not argue the question with him.

Essentials

Several American angling writers once had a controversy as to whether the chief end of a fishing rod is its ability to cast well or to hook and play a fish properly. To me it seemed like arguing on the relative merits of one's right and left leg since a good rod must do both well.

To meet these requirements a rod must possess strength and power combined with lightness and balance, pliancy (bend) combined with resiliency (spring), and these so related as to cast a reasonably long line straight and true with the minimum of effort on the angler's part, and to hook and land the fish that rise to our flies.

Action

Good action is an indefinite term when applied to a fly rod as every angler's idea of good action is likely to be different from that of his brothers. Some fly fishermen are slow, methodical workers, cast with great deliberation, and prefer the long “weepy “type of rod and its smooth action; others cast “snappy,”handle a long line without much regard to delicacy and will use nothing but a rod stiff from butt to tip. Between these extremes you will find a multitude of opinions more or less reasonable.

The English have the theories of rod action whittled down to a fine point, even producing devices to register the number of vibrations in a rod but such matters belong to the manufacturer not the angler.

Ideal Bass Rod

Without going into a tiresome discussion of the technicalities of rod action the ideal fly rod for bass fishing would be along the lines of the rod used by the dry fly fishermen or the tournament type of rod  a rod often described as having “plenty of back bone.”Such a rod is a powerful caster, capable of handling a longer line than is commonly used in trouting in this country and with considerable “horse power”in the upper third which is needed as a bass's mouth is bonier and tougher than a trout's and at times one must strike hard. Furthermore, bass flies are bulkier and take up more water than trout flies and the bass fly fisherman is more often called upon to use spinner, cork bodied flies and other heavy lures. Finally, the bass averages much more in weight than do the trout of most waters and like the trout he is often caught in cluttered-up places where he cannot always be given his head. Such a rod, if of fair weight and length, naturally is not an easy one to use all day and any modifications of it should be along the lines of making it slightly more pliant for ease of casting but the angler should remember that the farther he goes in this direction the farther he gets away from the ideal rod from the standpoint of bass fishing efficiency.

Length and Weight

The rods commonly used for bass fly fishing range from 9 to 101/2 feet, both inclusive, the 9, 91/2 and 10 foot lengths being the most popular. Just what length to select depends on the preference and the physique of the man that intends to use it. By this I do not mean that I subscribe to the fine drawn theory that one's rod should be arbitrarily gauged by one's height but a man of slight stature would derive more satisfaction by fishing with a nine foot rod than one of greater length, since the ideal bass rod is not an easy one to “swing “for long periods.

A rod of American manufacture of the correct action should weigh from 43/4 to 51/4 ounces in the 9 foot length; 51/4 to 53/4 in the 91/2 foot and 6 to 61/2 ounces in the 10. One might say that these lengths and weights are almost standard in regions where fly fishing for bass is commonly practiced.

For fishing where bass run heavier than ordinarily, such as in the southern states; for weedy rivers and lakes where the fish must be landed quickly or never; for wide, wind-swept bodies of water or for British rods made along British lines a half or three-quarters of an ounce may be added to the 9 and 91/2 footers and a full ounce or even more to those of 10 feet.

One may have his rod made especially for bass fishing but rods made for dry fly trout fishing often prove ideal for our purpose and any fairly heavy trout rod may be used in an emergency.

TROUT RODS

Of the making of many trout rods there is no end and there is a surprising variation of opinion among experienced trout fishermen as to what a trout rod should be. Perhaps it would avoid confusion if they were put into classes in a general way which I will now proceed to attempt.

THE “BABY “TROUT RODS

The so-called "baby”or "fairy”trout rods are dainty little fishing tools seldom over 71/2 feet in length and weighing from less than an ounce to 21/2 ounces or so. They are not, as one might imagine, mere toys to hang on the walls of the den nor are they practical for general fishing conditions. Casts of from fifty to seventy-five feet have been made with rods of this type and fish up to two pounds have been landed with them but they are for the expert angler and for the most favorable conditions, such as casting from a boat in water where there are no snags or obstructions of any kind so that the fish can be played with considerable freedom. The difficulties of making a rod of this light weight that will, stand up under any kind of fishing bring their cost up.

THE BROOK ROD

A little heavier than the foregoing we have the type of rod that might be called the brook rod, which ranges from 71/2 to 81/2 feet in length and weighs under four ounces. These fine little tools are perfection for fishing small streams where “lunker “trout are not often found.

AVERAGE TROUT RODS

The rod used by the general run of trout fishers will be 9 or 91/2 feet long and weigh anywhere from 4 to 51/2 ounces. Such a rod meets the average (if there be such a thing) fishing conditions that prevail in American waters. There is a wide range of weight here and an equally broad choice of action and relative stiffness.

HEAVY TROUT RODS

The heavy trout rod class overlaps the bass rods and the same weights and lengths are often used. That is, 9 to 10 feet in length and from 5 to 8 ounces in weight, the latter being for the heavier fishing such as is found in Lake Superior waters and the larger streams of the far west.

DRY FLY RODS

The dry fly rod approximates the bass fly rod, or rather the bass fly fisher has seized upon the dry fly rod or one similar to it as his very own. American anglers most often use the so-called tournament weights in their dry fly fishing. That is, 9 foot rods weighing 43/4 ounces and 91/2 footers that scale 53/4 ounces. Anglers often work out their own ideas in dry fly rods and we know one expert who fishes with floating flies with an 81/2 foot rod that weighs four ounces. It is interesting to note that the late Mr. F. M. Hal-ford, the famous English dry fly expert, reduced the weight of his dry fly rods as he gained in experience. His last model, which he pronounced as perfect, was 91/2 feet in length and weighing with spear and other heavy British fittings, 8 ounces, 14 drachms. We note a similar tendency among our more expert dry fly men.

TESTING

The best test for a fly rod is a season's use on the lake or stream but no tackle dealer is going to sell his rods on that basis. The average inexperienced fly fisherman will go into a tackle store, pick up a rod, swing it a little, discuss it much and then buy or reject it, depending on the salesmanship of the tackle man. Perhaps a skilled rod maker can get an idea of a rod's action by swinging it a few times; I cannot and I am sure that the average angler can do no better.

To really know what one is buying he should rig the rod up with reel and line and actually cast with it. For this reason I prefer to buy from a small tackle shop where I am known and where the owner will permit me to take a rod home and give it a try-out. That is the real way to buy a rod but it is not always possible.

In buying a wood rod do not get one that is stained which hides imperfection of grain. Examine it carefully for bad spots. In buying any rod hold it out straight and “sight”along its length. It should droop a trifle at the tip; if the dip is extreme try another as this fault will increase when the rod is put into use. A tip may be a trifle too stiff in a new rod as use will remedy that. If the rod is satisfactory so far slowly roll it over  the, droop should remain constant during a complete turn of the rod; if the tip is inclined to stick out at an angle during the rolling process it signifies a bad spot some place.

Now put a reel and line on the rod, run the line through the guides and tip-top and fasten the end of the line to some heavy object. Then put a strain on the rod and note its curve. When you release the strain the tip should fly back to normal with speed and snap and a good rod should stand this test from every angle.

Finally, make a few imaginary casts with the rod and note if it feels right in your hand. If it does you have tested it as much as possible under the circumstances. It is better to take a little care in selecting a rod in the first place than to try to “get used to it”later on if you find it not up to your ideal.

HIGH GRADE BAMBOO RODS

We have given some idea of comparative prices of wood rods but the great range in prices in split bamboo rods is something bewildering to the beginner. They can be bought for from seventy-five cents to seventy-five dollars. Obviously one is not going to get a first class rod for seventy-five cents nor for seven dollars and fifty cents. On the other hand it is not necessary to invest thirty or more dollars for a rod fit to fish with. For from ten to twenty-five dollars one can get a first class bamboo fly rod one good enough for the father of his country if it is selected carefully.

The raw materials unsplit bamboo, fittings and varnish of a thirty-five dollar fly rod can be bought in the open market for about twelve dollars. The difference represents profit, workmanship and selection. It requires not only considerable mechanical skill to produce a good bamboo fly rod but rare good judgment as well. From hundreds of pieces of unsplit “canes,”all looking to the untrained eye pretty much alike, the rod maker must select a few coming up to his standard and likely, in his estimation, to produce the ideal he has in mind. Pieces with “shakes,”borings, soft spots and other imperfections are discarded and the ones selected are then cut out roughly by machinery or split by hand with a dull knife, when other imperfections are often discovered. From what remains the skilled rod maker matches up as to toughness, resiliency, etc., enough pieces to make a rod. These pieces are carefully cured and then tied together in the form of a rod and again tested. At this critical stage unforeseen imperfections may come to light. If they finally come up to standard the pieces are glued up and the rod making proceeds. This, in a brief and general way, is the method of making a fine hand-made split bamboo rod. The pieces that were rejected in the various tests may go into cheaper rods. From this the prospective rod buyer can get an idea as to why bamboo rods vary so in price and why certain makers, who have reputations to maintain, charge what appears to be a “stiff”price for their output which, so far as surface appearances go, is nothing extraordinary. A few makers also have secret processes for improving bamboo.

Cheap Bamboo Rods

Unfortunately all anglers cannot afford to pay twenty or more dollars for a fly rod and he then can buy either a hand-made one of solid wood or a cheaper one of bamboo.

As stated before, a fine hand-made bamboo rod is a matter of selection but American factory efficiency has been applied to producing rods as well as other things and everything considered the present day machine-made bamboo rod is surprisingly good for the money. The splitting machines used in modern rod factories do remarkably well when one considers the good, bad and indifferent material they work with and by making a careful selection one often gets a fairly good rod for a small investment. I have owned a number of cheap bamboo fly rods that were good fishing tools and it is a notable fact that you see more rods on the streams costing less than fifteen dollars than those costing more than that amount.

CARE AND REPAIR

The chief merit of the steel rod is that it requires little care and stands much abuse. Bare spots should be touched up with enamel when they appear to guard against rust and the rod should be wiped, preferably with an oily rag, before being put away and the ferrules should be kept oiled. Otherwise a steel rod will take care of itself. Wood rods are inclined to dry rot and to warp or become crooked and they should be kept well varnished at all times which protects them from changes of temperature and moisture.

The principal objection to the bamboo rod is that it requires care. A good bamboo rod should not be used for trolling or for strip, slack line, Lake Greenwood or pump pole casting. If you want to use these fishing methods get a cheap wood or steel rod for the purpose.

No fly rod should be left lying on the ground at all or in a boat for any length of time; neither should it be permitted to lean against a tree or side of a building and don't leave it lying in the hot sun if you can avoid it. Every well-regulated camp should have a rack for the rods.

After using a rod straighten it carefully with the hands, wipe it off with a dry cloth and insert the ferrule stoppers, if your rod has them, before putting it in its case. It is a good plan to use tips alternately and have one hanging up straightening at all times.

Keep the ferrules oiled or rub them along the side of your nose when rigging up. Never twist a ferrule that sticks. Grasp it as close up as possible and pull straight and steady; get some one to help you if necessary. A friend avoids all ferrule trouble by carrying a small pack of the finest steel wool. When a ferrule gets balky he rubs the male end with the wool, oils it, inserts it as far as it will go in the female, gives it a couple of turns and repeats until he has a good fit. Never use pumice, emery or a file on a ferrule.

The best place to store a rod not in use is in a dry room of cool and even temperature. Hang it up by the tip if possible, and it will always keep straight; otherwise hang each joint small end up. If the tips have a set straighten them carefully with the hands and suspend them with a small weight at the lower end.

If kept in a warm room, especially where there is steam heat, the wood will expand and shrink with the varying temperature and this will loosen the ferrules. Go over your rods early in the spring and either send them to the tackle repair shop or put them in shape yourself. Frayed windings, and sometimes all of them, should be renewed, shaky ferrules reset and the rod given several coats of good varnish applied with a camel hair brush in a warm room and dried where dust cannot get at it. In fact frequent varnishing is “heap good medicine”for wood and bamboo rods and one could pervert a proverb in this connection: Spare the varnish and spoil the rod. If the tips have developed a tendency toward “softness”renew the windings at closer intervals. If you must keep your rod on its form be careful not to tie the strings too tightly.

When going on a fishing trip far from home it is advisable to carry one of the repair kits sold by the tackle dealer. I hope you will never have to use it but you will feel better if you have one along.

CASES

rod case is a good investment. Rods carried on forms in a light canvas bag are likely to get smashed. The cases of sole leather are best but expensive. The stiffened, leather covered cases are sold at a low price and do nicely. A cloth roll of many partitions one piece of a rod to a pocket to go into the case economizes on space and enables one to carry a number of rods or several rods and a landing net frame and handle.

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