6. Apparel

WHAT TO WEAR BE COMFORTABLE IF NOT FASHIONABLE UNDERWEAR

Perhaps a writer is getting “altogether too personal,”as the saying goes, in discussing the kind of underwear an angler should don when faring forth for fish. However, I feel duty bound to recommend underwear of wool, or of a goodly proportion of that material, for early or late fishing or when wading with or without waders. When wearing waders in fair weather woolen underwear absorbs perspiration and prevents the angler getting chilled when he takes them off or if the temperature suddenly drops  something that often happens when angling. Besides, even when wearing waders, the possibility of getting a “ducking “by making a misstep into a deep hole or with the fiendish and conspiring aid of slippery or rolling stones (which do gather moss in streams), is by no means remote. The discomfort occasioned by such a catastrophe is greatly lessened if the hapless angler is protected by wool. When wading without waders woolen underwear prevents chilling and guards against those “inflrmyties,”mentioned by Dame Berners, that come from getting cold and wet. For the same reasons all-wool sox and stockings are advisable.

BOOTS AND WADERS

The ideal way to wade a stream is to don woolen underwear, an old pair of trousers and shirt, put your smoking material and matches in your hat and go to it. Early and late in the season and in streams that are spring fed and cold, this is usually too rigorous for the average angler.

Next best is to fish a stream shallow enough to permit the angler to “pick “his way along in hip boots or wading stockings. Such streams, if of stony bottom, are likely to be dangerously slippery and the adjustable sandals, studded with hob nails, should be worn over the boots. These sandals come in two sizes, large and small, and are adjustable several sizes each way.

When considerable deep water is to be waded, the regular waders, or wading pants, should be worn, These garments are sweat boxes in warm weather and are hardly comfortable in cold but they offer the only protection known when wading streams of fair depth and must be looked upon as “necessary evils."

HEAVY WADERS

The heavier waders are made of mackintosh or of some other equally stiff and heavy waterproof material. Their chief recommendation is that they wear longer than the lightweight. They come with both boot and stocking feet.

FEATHERWEIGHT WADERS

The English have produced a wader of very light and thin waterproof material known generally as “featherweight “waders. Although they are not as durable as the heavy weight style they wear fairly well and are more comfortable and easier to “navigate “in. They are made to come well above the waist, with a puckering string at the top and often with a pocket in front to hold a fly book or leader box. Being made only with stocking feet they may be rolled in a remarkably small package.

SHOES

Stocking feet waders must be worn with shoes of some kind as the feet are made light and thin. Regular wading shoes are made for the purpose. They are of canvas, or canvas and leather, equipped with heavy soles studded with blunt nails or hobs to prevent slipping. The best nails are of soft iron as they “grip “better than those of steel. A pair of heavy socks should be worn under the shoes to prevent wear on the feet of the waders. It is also advisable to wear a pair of overalls or light khaki trousers over the waders to prevent chafing and tearing while going through the brush.

For boat or canoe wear I recommend light unwater-proofed moccasins with or without soles; tennis slippers are also good.

CARE OF BOOTS AND WADERS

Waders and boots, to be of any use, obviously must be kept dry inside. In warm weather one often finds himself so damp that he may suspect his waders of leaking although usually it is only perspiration. Waders thus dampened should be opened and hung up so the air can get at them. Waders that are actually wet inside demand more thorough treatment.

I learned how to dry out rubber boots or waders under somewhat distressing circumstances. I was fishing a sheltered bay on Bass Lake, Ind., during a raw, northeast wind one day in the spring. I was casting from shore, wading out as far as the height of my boots would permit. I had a common grain sack tied to my belt to hold the fish which, despite the un-propitious circumstances, were striking well. As soon as the bag grew decently heavy I decided to go ashore and forgetting all about the bag tied to my waist, I turned, stepped on it, lost my balance and took what the youngsters call “a header “into the icy water.

By the time I drove four miles in an open motor car in the teeth of the cold wind a hot fire and dry clothing were welcome, to say the least. My host, Frank Hay, the dean of the northern Indiana anglers, then showed me how to quickly dry wet boots. First he emptied out the water and rubbed the inside of the boots with a dry cloth to remove as much of the remaining moisture as possible. Then he took sheets of newspaper and placed them on the hot stove until they scorched (they turn brown and give forth a “burned”odor when sufficiently heated) and crammed my boots full of this warm material. In a remarkably short time they were dried perfectly. Heating oats, bran or sand and using in the same way is also recommended but the newspaper treatment is the best I have ever seen so I pass the idea along. Parenthetically, you will note that I do not recommend a grain sack for holding fish, in the chapter on tackle!

As soon as the angler reaches his fishing grounds he should remove his waders from the suit case or duffle bag and hang them up. Do not pack waders that are wet as they are liable to rot. As soon as the angler reaches home he should hang the waders in the open air until they are thoroughly dried. Do not roll them up when storing them between seasons.

Boots or waders with a leak are worse than useless. The best way to locate a puncture is to blow up each boot or wader leg with a tire pump and submerge in a tub of water when small bubbles will tell where the trouble is. The poorest way to find a leak is to have a trickle of icy water tell you about it.

A leak can be patched by either inserting a rubber plug, such as is used for patching tires, or by a round patch put on with tire cement. The quick repair discs, that fit both over and under the hole and tighten, are also handy. A temporary patch can be made with adhesive tape or canoe glue. Best of all, if the material will permit, is to have the puncture vulcanized by the garage man.

OUTERWEAR

JACKET

The outerwear of the angler should be reasonably strong, weather-proof and inconspicuous. The latter points were quaintly brought out by Dennys in his oft-quoted verse:

"And let your garments russet be or grey, Of colour darke and hardest to descry; That with the Raine or weather will away, And least offend the fearfull Fishes eye."

Most stream fishermen favor the regulation wading jacket which has many advantages. It is made short  my little daughter aptly calls it a “monkey jacket “so as not to drag in the water and has a wealth of pockets. A knapsack or large pocket in the back carries tennis slippers, cook kit, camera or lunch. Altogether, it is a sensible garment.

RAIN CAPE OR COAT

To wear over the shoulders while fishing in the rain a cape of light rubber is made that is most convenient. It folds in slightly larger bulk than a handkerchief.

For fishing from a boat in bad weather I recommend the so-called folding motor rain coat. This garment is made on the style of a surgeon's over-all. It both puckers and snaps at the neck and the sleeves are closed at the wrists by sewed-in elastic which prevents water running up the arm. It covers the entire body and is absolutely waterproof. It packs in a rubber envelope making a package about a foot square and 3 inches thick  handy as a cushion in fair weather. It is the first thing that goes in my duffle bag when I pack for a fishing or duck hunting trip. It should not be put away wet nor stored folded.

HAT AND CAP

Most fly fishermen affect an old, battered felt hat with a wide, loose band on which they dry their flies before returning them to the book or box. Thus decorated they look, as my friend Herb Daniels once remarked, “like noble red men on the war path."

I prefer a light khaki cap with a large, green lined visor or peak and ear laps and neck cape, such as duck hunters wear. I find it very handy to foil mosquitoes and black flies who often attack with intentions I suspect of being bloodthirsty.

HEAD NETS

Head nets, like waders, are the lesser of two evils. A cheap one is made of light netting and is held away from the face by the hat brim and ties under the arms.

It folds very compactly. A more elaborate one is made of metal gauze.

If you smoke get a head net provided with an opening for the purpose.

GLOVES

A pair of light leather gloves is a comfort on “nippy “days and also protects one from mosquitoes. For the latter purpose tackle dealers sell a thin gauntlet that covers the entire forearm.

GOGGLES

Some anglers find the sunbeams dancing on the riffles very trying to the eyes, making a pair of green or amber-colored goggles very comfortable. They cost from fifty cents up.

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